How to Choose a Tie: Colour, Width and Knot

A tie is a small thing that changes the whole outfit. Choose it well and the suit looks considered; choose it badly and it's the first thing people notice. Here's how we help men pick one at Ryle Menswear on 49 Ashe Street, Tralee — where the tie wall runs the full range of colours, arranged by shade.

Start with the suit, not the tie

The tie should be darker than the shirt. That single rule solves most outfits. With a navy suit, almost anything works — burgundy, forest green, silver, patterned blues. With charcoal or grey, deeper colours look best: wine, navy, dark green. With a black suit, keep the tie simple and dark; black suits are for formal occasions and don't want a loud tie.

Getting the width right

Match the tie to the lapel. A slim lapel wants a slim tie; a wider, classic lapel wants a wider one. Most modern suits sit comfortably with a tie around 7–8 cm at the widest point. Hold the tie against the jacket in the mirror — if one looks like it belongs to a different suit, it does.

Length: one rule

The tip of the tie should finish at the middle of your belt buckle. Not above it, not swinging below. If you're tall, ask — some ties come in longer lengths, and a made-to-measure shirt and a properly tied knot buy you a couple of centimetres too.

Which knot?

• Four-in-hand — slightly asymmetric, easy, works with most collars. The everyday knot.
• Half-Windsor — neat triangle, a bit more formal. Good for weddings and interviews.
• Full Windsor — wide and symmetrical; needs a spread or cutaway collar and a longer tie.

A dimple under the knot is what makes it look deliberate rather than yanked into place — pinch the fabric as you tighten.

Patterns without the headache

If the suit is plain, the tie can carry the pattern. If the suit is checked or tweed, keep the tie plain or use a very small repeating pattern. Never put two patterns of the same scale next to each other — they fight. And the pocket square shouldn't match the tie exactly; pick up one colour from it instead.

Weddings, debs and funerals

For a wedding, the groom's party usually goes with one colour family so the photographs work — bring the group in and we'll line the ties up against the suits. For a debs, either match the dress or go with a classic slim tie or a bow tie. For a funeral, a plain black or very dark tie is the respectful choice, and we keep them in stock — call in and we'll sort you quickly.

Where to see them

Our tie and pocket square wall is in-store — hundreds of colours side by side, which is the only real way to match a shade. Bring your jacket or a photo of it and we'll pair it in a minute. See the rest of the range in our guide to men's accessories in Tralee, and if the shirt underneath needs sorting too, read our shirt guide.